Fashioning the Future: Mycelium's Moment in Luxury
Bottega Veneta's Bold Step Towards Biodegradable Luxury
Bottega Veneta, under the Kering luxury conglomerate, has recently unveiled an exclusive range of compact leather accessories that feature Ephea, an innovative material derived from mycelium, developed by the Italian biomaterials firm Sqim. This collection marks a pivotal shift from conventional bovine leather within Bottega Veneta's iconic intrecciato weaving technique, aligning with creative director Louise Trotter's Fall 2026 men's collection.
Kering's Investment in Material Innovation and Sustainability Goals
Kering's involvement extends beyond this specific collection; the group invested in Sqim's Series A funding in 2024. While Balenciaga previously showcased an Ephea-based coat in its FW22 collection, this marks Bottega Veneta's inaugural use of the material. This collaboration is a direct outcome of Ephea's development within Kering's Material Innovation Lab in Milan, a hub dedicated to discovering and integrating hundreds of advanced alternative materials into luxury brands.
Driving Change: Kering's Ambitious Sustainability Directives
Implementing such innovative materials requires substantial commitment from leadership and design teams, alongside extensive research. Kering's recently published 10-year impact report (2016-2025) outlines ambitious sustainability targets set by CEO Luca de Meo. These include a mandate for 40% of ready-to-wear items to incorporate alternative materials by 2035 and a 30% reduction in leather usage intensity by 2028, compared to 2025 levels. De Meo also aims for 20% of Kering's revenue to stem from innovation by 2035, evenly split between material/process advancements and new business models/services.
Leadership's Vision for Sustainable Luxury Innovation
Marie-Claire Daveu, Kering's chief sustainability and institutional affairs officer, views Bottega Veneta's mycelium collection as a testament to material innovation's capacity to unlock new creative avenues while upholding luxury's core values of quality, desirability, and craftsmanship. She emphasizes the critical role of next-generation materials and eco-conscious design from the initial stages of product development, asserting that innovation will redefine luxury's future through thoughtful design, sourcing, and production.
The Rollercoaster Journey of Mycelium-Based Materials
The early 2020s witnessed a surge in interest and investment in mycelium-based leather alternatives, attracting significant venture capital and high-profile brand collaborations. Brands like Stella McCartney and Ganni partnered with Bolt Threads, while Hermès collaborated with Mycoworks, securing substantial funding. Natural Fiber Welding also forged alliances with numerous luxury brands for its Mirum material.
Challenges and Resilience in the Biomaterials Sector
However, the initial boom faced setbacks. Bolt Threads halted production of its Mylo alternative in 2023 due to funding challenges. Mycoworks adjusted its strategy in 2025, shifting from in-house cultivation to processing third-party mycelium. Natural Fiber Welding also faced near-bankruptcy, highlighting the difficulties in achieving commercial scale and stability within the burgeoning biomaterials industry.
Artisanal Craftsmanship Meets Material Innovation at Bottega Veneta
Creative director Louise Trotter stresses that for luxury brands to fully embrace these new materials, they must be treated with the same meticulous care and artistry as traditional leather. Bottega Veneta's Ephea collection exemplifies this philosophy, applying it to its iconic intrecciato weave. Trotter explains that the brand's exploration balances material innovation with its rich heritage of artisanal tradition, refining techniques and craftsmanship.
Expanding the Horizon of Sustainable Offerings
Bottega Veneta has indicated that its Woven Mycelium collection will continue to evolve, with new styles and colors expected in future collections. While not a complete replacement for leather, the Ephea range provides a sophisticated, animal-free option for discerning customers. Yoann Regent, Bottega Veneta's head of sustainability, adds that this initiative also aims to support the scaling of innovative materials, making them more accessible and affordable for other brands.
A Catalyst for Industry-Wide Change
Regent highlights that the Woven Mycelium collection not only reduces environmental impact but also opens doors to novel textures and aesthetics, all while upholding the brand's commitment to quality and longevity. By bringing mycelium into a commercial setting, Bottega Veneta contributes to accelerating its adoption, nurturing supplier ecosystems, and driving systemic change across the luxury industry.