In Guillermo del Toro's adaptation of Frankenstein, costume designer Kate Hawley weaves a rich tapestry of visual storytelling, transforming mere garments into integral elements of the narrative. Her approach, which she likens to composing music, harmonizes with del Toro's directorial vision, treating costumes not just as adornments but as evocative extensions of character and theme. The film's shift to the 1850s, a period of burgeoning scientific discovery, deeply influenced Hawley's aesthetic choices, allowing her to infuse designs with subtle anatomical and scientific motifs. This meticulous attention to detail extends to each character, whose attire subtly mirrors their inner worlds and thematic significance within the story.
Hawley's extensive collaboration with del Toro, marking their third project together after Crimson Peak and Pacific Rim, highlights a profound synergy. She describes del Toro as a conductor, guiding his team like an orchestra to achieve a unified artistic expression. Hawley interprets his scripts with the same nuance as musical scores, recognizing the visual language as equally potent as the written word. This collaborative dynamic ensures that every visual component, from cinematography to hair and makeup, contributes to a cohesive and immersive experience for the audience. The designs for Elizabeth, for instance, incorporate patterns inspired by fractals and X-rays, along with colors reminiscent of beetle wings, reflecting her character's fascination with entomology and biology.
The film's updated setting in the 1850s allowed Hawley to explore a period ripe with technological and medical advancements, moving away from the novel's late-Enlightenment backdrop. This historical context informed the integration of scientific themes into the costumes. A prominent spine motif, subtly appearing on characters like Mia Goth's Elizabeth and Jacob Elordi's Creature, serves as a visual metaphor for the film's exploration of anatomy and creation. Elordi's portrayal of the Creature deliberately diverges from conventional depictions, aiming for a more vulnerable, nascent quality, evoking the fragility of a newborn bird with translucent skin rather than the stereotypical green skin and neck bolts.
In contrast, Oscar Isaac's portrayal of Victor Frankenstein embraces Romantic aesthetics, characterized by flowing poet's blouses, yet also incorporates a rebellious edge, drawing inspiration from icons like Mick Jagger and David Bowie. Hawley explains del Toro's perception of the Romantics as the original 'punks,' underscoring a forgotten aspect of their historical identity. This blending of classical and counter-cultural influences imbues Victor's character with a complex duality, mirroring the film's thematic depth and its reinterpretation of Mary Shelley's classic tale. The deliberate anachronisms and nuanced details enrich the visual narrative, offering fresh insights into the characters' motivations and the story's broader implications.
The production's commitment to authenticity and detail extended to its partnership with Tiffany & Co., which provided both vintage and contemporary jewelry pieces. Hawley collaborated with the esteemed jeweler to design unique items, including a sterling silver brooch set and a porcelain faux-coral cross necklace, specifically for the film. These precious accessories added a layer of opulence and historical fidelity, with one notable anecdote involving an archive team member discreetly positioned beneath Mia Goth's voluminous crinoline during a piano scene, ready to safeguard a priceless 40-carat Wade necklace should it accidentally fall. Such painstaking efforts underscore the dedication to visual excellence in every frame of the film.
Hawley's creative journey on Frankenstein encapsulates a process of continuous discovery and artistic elevation, akin to Victor Frankenstein's ambitious pursuit of creation. She views each project as a challenging ascent, culminating in moments of profound insight and satisfaction. The symbiotic relationship within the filmmaking team mirrors the very themes of creation and interconnectedness explored in the story, with Hawley feeling that they are all, in a sense, del Toro's 'creatures,' united in their shared artistic endeavor. This sentiment highlights the deeply collaborative and passionate spirit that defines the making of this cinematic adaptation, transforming a literary classic into a visually stunning and emotionally resonant experience.